What is wheel alignment & tracking?

Wheel alignment is based on how far your wheels point away from your cars central line, wheel alignment impacts how straight your car will drive. Your car's performance and safety could be jeopardised if one or more of your wheels is pointing in the wrong direction or running unevenly, no matter how little it is off.

What problems can bad wheel alignment cause?

The quality of your wheel alignment has an impact on both your car's control and the life of your tyres. Any issues could result in you losing control of your vehicle, veering across lanes, or drastically increasing tyre wear. This puts you at higher risk of a burst tyre or finding your tyres wearing out quickly.

This puts you in the position of having to spend money on new tyres when a wheel alignment appointment could cost you much less.

Is there a way to tell if your wheel alignment is off?

It's simple to tell whether your wheels are misaligned, but you must know what to look for.

Your wheel alignment is likely to be the reason if your car starts dragging, tugging or pulling to one side while driving or if your steering wheel doesn't sit central.

Remove your hands from the steering wheel for a very small period of time on a straight section of road (if safe to do so) and check if you continue to drive in a straight line. If you start to swerve to one side, your wheels are most likely out of alignment.

It is also worth checking the tyres for uneven wear, if your wheel alignment is out of align then you will often find uneven or odd wear on the tyre treads.

What causes my wheel alignment to be incorrect?

Most wheel alignment issues are caused by minor collisions such as bumping into pot holes, hitting kerbs or driving up and down obstacles. You will also find wheel alignment can go off course if you regularly drive over speed humps or across bumpy unadopted roads/lanes. Wheel alignment also needs to be checked and adjusted when specific work is carried out on the suspension.

How can I correct my wheel alignment?

Wheel alignment is corrected by placing your car onto a wheel alignment machine which can measure the geometry of your vehicle to see if it is within the guidelines. Here at Whatlington Garage we have advanced 4 wheel alignment systems that can check your cars alignment. Whilst your car is on the machine a mechanic is able to carry out small adjustments to bring your car back into alignment, or advise if there are any components significantly worn or damaged.

A sticky situation - removing stuck bugs from your car!

How to remove bugs from your car.

With spring just starting and summer around the corner, it won't be long until the front of the car starts to resemble a bug cemetery. Ignoring the fact that the squashed insects look rather unsightly, there is a more critical problem of the acid from inside the bugs damaging the paintwork.

The real solution to this is to tackle the problem as often as possible, removing any bugs quickly. This not only makes the removal process easier but also limits the exposure of the paint to the bugs acid and thus saving your paint in the process.

Cleaning bugs doesn't need to be extreme.

When cleaning the car, you may notice that the bugs remain! Traditional car shampoos and car cleaners rarely get the bugs off the paintwork, and those that do get removed often lean stains, marks and similar visible debris behind.

Our normal reaction to this is to get extreme, normally in the sense of grabbing the nearest abrasive cleaning solution and really scrubbing away at the paint. Whilst this may have the desired result, it also damages the lacquer and clear coat on the paint, quite often there is a gentler, easier approach to cleaning away those dead bugs.

Special products for bug removal.

When dealing with dead bugs, the best advise is to clear them off before washing your car. There is a comprehensive range of products available that are specifically designed to attack the bug remains without being abrasive or extreme. They are often sold as 'bug cleaners' or sometimes bundled as a 'bug and tar remover' product.

These specialist products come in a variety of forms including concentrated solutions, sprays, wipes and even 'bars' that you rub on the bugs.

Do these cleaning products actually work?

These speciality cleaners can certainly work wonders and often produce much better results when used before washing your car normally. They work by using chemicals to break down the sticky bond between the stuck substance and the paintwork. Most of the specialist products work well on not only stuck on bugs but also tar deposits and bird poo which are both just as detrimental to paint work.

AutoExpress have done a fantastic review of bug cleaners on the market which can be found at the link below, although you will need to register for free to read it all.

Best bug cleaners 2021 | Auto Express

The general consensus with cleaning products is to try and stick to products either reviewed well or produced by the name brands such as Meguiars, Turtle Wax, Auto Finesse and AngelWax

How to remove dead bugs from the front of the car.

Current products on the market are very easy to use, the spray is simply sprayed directly onto the bugs and left for a bit for it to work away at the sticky residue. Once left for a few minutes they can simply be wiped away with a damp cloth.

The other common product is 'bug wipes' which allow you to simply wipe the bugs away, although in tests these are best to have in the car to wipe away the bugs quickly and are often not that good at removing more ingrained bugs.

The trick with removing the bugs without damaging the paintwork is to act quickly. Removal of the bugs before washing the car is also highly recommended. Many car geeks often keep a bug/tar remover in their car so they can tackle this issues immediately.

How to remove dead bugs from my windscreen.

Unliked the paintwork, dead bugs on a windscreen are considerably easier to remove. Most screen wash mixes at the correct ratio are more than capable of letting the wipers remove the bugs. Failing that, most glass cleaners with a decent microfibre cloth or even better glass cloth will remove even the most stubborn of stuck bugs with little issue.

In the very rare instance of a truly stuck bug on your windscreen, the brand Turtle Wax recommends a bit of baking soda dissolved in water sprayed or applied to the bug works. The baking soda dissolves the bug and allows easy removal via the normal methods.

Can I stop or help prevent bugs from sticking?

Stopping the bugs from sticking is virtually impossible, however like most things, the rougher the surface the easier it is for the bug internals to adhere to the paint. Aside from keeping your car clean.

It is recommended to apply a wax, polish or paint treatment to your cars paint work. Not only does this give you a nice shiny showroom finish but this finish is caused by the paint being incredibly smooth. This ultra smooth clean paint can prove much harder to 'stick' to thus making it easier to keep the car in a clean, tip top condition.

How to test drive before buying a used car

Introduction to testing your potential new car

Buying a 'new' used car can be an exciting, yet daunting prospect for many. Being prepared on what to look for before making your purchase can help you make a more informed choice and potentially spot any problems that may have been missed.

It is important to note that the ultimate way to check a used car is to arrange for an independent inspection of the vehicle before purchase and most dealers, even private sellers are normally happy to facilitate this. However, in the instances where the car cost doesn't justify the cost of an inspection, or a quicker turnaround is needed here is a quick guide of areas to check which hopefully can prompt a few checks you may not of considered.

Carrying out a full check is important, so not only does this include the typically test drive but also a features/functionality check of all the items on the car. Even if something is discovered, but the rest of the car is right for you, the fact it was discovered before the purchase can help you make that informed choice.

Are you legally allowed to test drive the car?

Many people overlook the law when taking a car out for a test drive. When driving a car on a public road it is essential to make sure firstly that you have the minimum required insurance cover and that the vehicle is road legal with an MOT and vehicle excise duty (tax).

Many vehicles sold privately have a valid MOT and tax, so simply ensure that your insurance covers you for driving a third party vehicle before going on the test drive. If these aren't present then they will need to be added to the vehicle before a test drive or alternatively you will need to take the vehicle to a pre booked MOT for an assessment.

Most dealerships and independent traders will have additional steps in process to help assist with the test drive process. Trade plates are often used to allow an untaxed vehicle to drive on the road for test and demonstration purposes and many dealers/traders will have the required insurance in place to allow you to test drive their vehicles too.

Lastly, when making a private purchase it is always advised to meet the seller at their home address so that you can verify and link any documentation to the correct address.

A quick visual tour of the car with your eyes.

There are many signs visually that can give away how a car has been treated and what a car has been through in the past. Many possibilities include coverups, accident damage repairs, signs of rust/bubbling of paint etc.

The first area to check is to take a visual tour around the car and look out for any obvious signs of damage to the exterior of the vehicle. Look out for signs of rust, paint bubbling or lacquer marks on the surface of the paint which can all indicate that a costly paint repair or welding repair may be due.

A good place to also check is along rubber seals to see if any paint 'overspray' is present (fine splattering of paint), or whether there is flaking paint or colour changes along the edges as this is a clear indication of poor crash or accident damage repair.

Make sure on your visual inspection you look at all angles particularly paying attention to the way sunlight bends on the paint as this will highlight colour differences, dents and creases, all signs of body repair in the past.

The last visual check should be on the ground, in the engine bay and the cars interior. Signs of oil leaking, misting of oil or other liquid marks could potentially cause alarm. It's also worth checking the interior for rips, tears, marks, scratches.

It is important to note with any used car that the older the vehicle or the higher the mileage the more likely you are to experience cosmetic issues. Many areas such as small chips, light surface marks etc are to be expected. If in doubt, ask the seller and gauge their response.

Trust your nose, unusual smells can give away many issues.

The way a car smells can hint towards many issues and can be an early indicator of something being wrong. Our advise is to keep an eye out for smells during the full duration of your test.

Engine smells such as 'fuel' or 'oil' smells can indicate an engine running issue, sweet smells often indicate a coolant leak with the coolant burning off and exhaust/fume smells can indicate an exhaust leak or blocked DPF.

As well as the engine it's worth considering smells inside the vehicle. A car that has been previously owned by a smoker or pet owner can have many ingrained smells that can be difficult to remove and certainly worth considering before purchasing. If the car has a significant amount of air fresheners or an exceptionally strong odour of air fresheners this can be a mask for more sinister smells.

Open your ears, sound is very important.

Trusting what you hear can be a very important part of the test drive experience. Whilst it is important to test the sound system and to gain information from the sales rep, it is also important to gauge the car by turning off the sound system and asking the sales rep to be quiet for a bit.

Typical noises you are listening out for are squeals, knocks, taps and bangs, especially when driving over rough roads, speed bumps and full lock steering. These noises can often indicate worn suspension components, low fluid levels, worn joints/shafts and similar wear & tear that will need addressing soon.

Other noises can be from the engine or gearbox area which are potentially a very serious issue, or something less sinister like poorly fitting internals or heat shields rattling. It's important to listen for all noises with the windows up and windows down.

If in any doubt over a noise then seek independent advise.

Warning lights, dash displays and beeping sounds.

Many people understand the importance of checking for warning messages or lights whilst the car is running. However it is important to also check that these warning lights are actually functioning and haven't simply been disabled or maliciously tampered with.

When you put the key in the ignition and turn the ignition on, check that the warning lights illuminate and then turn off. If a warning light does not illuminate this can be a sign that the light or system has been disabled, potentially to hide a known fault.

Common lights found on the majority of vehicles which will illuminate and then turn off are Airbag, Oil, Engine Management Light, ABS, Battery, Coil Light, DPF/Emissions, Traction Control and Tyre Pressure Monitoring Systems.

Tyre Pressure Management Systems - Check BEFORE you test.

A common error light which is often ignored is the tyre pressure system. Many people will assume a tyre pressure is simply low when low batteries, damaged sensors and punctures are often the cause which have a far greater outlay. If the TPMS light is on, ask the seller to inflate the tyre and reset the light BEFORE going on the test drive, the light should remain off throughout the duration of your test drive. If it comes back on, then there's an issue.

Does the car allow you to sit comfortable?

The sitting position, driving controls and space in a car is often overlooked by many. Before buying a car make sure that you are comfortable. Ensure when you are looking at the vehicle that it will be suitable for your requirements going forwards, e.g. is the boot big enough, can you fit the car seat(s) in comfortable, do you have any mobility or health issues which it may hamper.

Make sure you spend a bit of time testing the seat controls to make sure the seat is fully adjustable and working. Ensure that you can get the seat in a position that works for you, allows you to reach the pedals, see adequately and have the correct position for the controls.

There are many vehicles which were originally designed as left hand drive cars that have a slightly offset sitting position. If you have not experienced this or not used to it, it can potentially cause back ache or similar pains on long journeys.

Check all the features, controls and switches.

Most cars have an array of features, controls and switches inside them, modern cars especially are packed with many features from climate control through to cruise control! Some of these features can have a significant cost to repair if they are faulty.

Taking the time to run through these controls and identifying any features that are broken will help you make an informed choice before purchasing and potentially allow you to walk away from serious issues or negotiate a discount on the final price.

As a final note on this section, we wouldn't always expect every feature to work, especially on an older used car. However it is useful to understand what features do and don't work as a specific feature may be something you can ignore or something you specifically need.

Drive on as many road types and conditions.

A quick and short section but one that is incredibly important. When taking the vehicle for a test drive ensure you pick a variety of roads to enable the best chance of finding faults. We always advise to try smooth fast roads, rough slow roads and pick a car park or similar to attempt manoeuvres such as full lock turns, reversing etc.

How does the car drive? Straight? Wobbly? Pulls?

When driving the vehicle take note of the 'feel' of the vehicle as you drive. Areas to be looking out for including vibrations, wobbles or general 'light' or 'floaty' feelings when driving as these can hint to suspension issues, braking issues or tyre issues.

A car with damaged suspension or tracking issues will either pull significantly to one side, have uneven wear on the tyres or have a steering wheel that doesn't sit central when driving in a straight line.

Generally speaking, an experienced driver can often feel if a car doesn't feel quite right. Sometimes it is important to act on a gut feeling and get the issue checked.

Checking the cars history, this can show a lot!

Most savvy car buyers are well aware of carrying out a history search (HPI Check) for any potential vehicle purchase, especially if the vehicle cost is high. The HPI Check will look into the vehicles history to see if there are any known issues such as finance, mileage discrepancies, stolen etc.

It's also worth checking the MOT history of the car using the government website, this can often show signs of work/repairs it has had recently and how well the car has been maintained. You can also check the mileage records of the car as it was presented for each MOT. The MOT is a great place to check for previous advisories such as rust, corrosion and potential parts on their way out.

Check the condition of the tyres

The condition of the tyres and their treads can give a lot away about other aspects of the car. It's worth checking the tyre tread for signs of wear. Edge and uneven wear can be signs of issues with tracking or suspension components which may require further investigation.

Also, if the tyre tread is down near the wear bars this will also give you an indication of how much life is left on the tyres and when an additional expense may arise in the future.

Locking wheel tool, make sure its there!

Make sure the locking wheel nut remover is present if they are fitted to the car. This is often overlooked but can cause a significant stress to sort when you are at the side of the road with a puncture!

Whilst this isn't a problem to resolve it is worth noting this. If for any reason the tool is missing, broken or not functional then you will need to replace this asap before using the car on the road. Otherwise you risk being stuck, or stranded at the roadside.

Summarising the test

This article goes quite in depth of the various systems, checks and tests to make before buying a car. It is however important to recognise that a used car will not be perfect and it is down to you to decide if that particular identified problem is going to halt the sale, be a cause for a monetary discussion or something you can simply overlook and live with.

This article is simply a guide and in no way guarantees to cover every aspect, we also can't be held liable if for any reason you miss something or don't spot something. Our advise is to always seek an independent inspection, especially on higher value purchases.

Aquaplaning, how do we avoid it?

What is aquaplaning (aka hydroplaning)?

Anytime we find standing water on the road our vehicles run the risk of aquaplaning. The standing water causes the vehicles tyres to lose contact with the road surface and in effect your car is floating on the water rather than driving on the road.

When a vehicle is aquaplaning the driver loses control of the vehicle and won't regain control until the tyres grip part of the road surface again. This can present the driver in an incredibly dangerous situation allowing a fast moving vehicle to be completely out of control.

What conditions can cause aquaplaning?

Standing water is the cause of aquaplaning and can come from many sources. The most common source for standing water is from heavy or persistent rain allowing water to collect or not drain fast enough. We can also see standing water form due to blocked drains, water leaks or the result of other situations such as flooding or emergencies.

Any standing water has the potential to allow aquaplaning to happen regardless of how it got there.

How do we avoid aquaplaning?

In order to prevent aquaplaning we need to ensure the cars tyres are able to disperse the water below them and keep grip on the road. In many circumstances it is very hard to prevent aquaplaning and thus we should also take considerable care when the conditions are bad.

How should I react if I find myself aquaplaning?

If you find yourself losing control at high speed it can be very scary and daunting. The current advise for drivers who find themselves aquaplaning is to do the following, be warned though that this is slightly different to finding yourself in a skid.

What are fog lights & when do I use them?

Have you ever driven in fog and realised just how ineffective headlights can be through the mist? Whether it's thick fog or a light sea mist, the effectiveness of your headlights is greatly reduced. It can also become hard, to virtually impossible to see when using your full beams too. Driving in fog can be a challenging experience in the day time, let alone at night when your headlights are reflecting back causing considerable vision impairment.

To help improve vision in these challenging circumstances many cars are fitted with front fog lights and all cars will be fitted with at least one rear fog light. They are fitted in such a position that they shine the light under the fog helping to illuminate the road ahead without glaring back at your face. The rear fog light is present to provide a much brighter red light on the rear to help your vehicle get seen sooner.

However, using the fog lights inappropriately can hinder other road users, often to the point of causing them considerable difficulties driving, e.g. visual impairment. This is why the cars are fitted with a small indicator inside known as a tell-tale light. The rear fog and tell-tale light is also included on the MOT inspection.

What are fog lights?

Traditional car headlights are normally at the mid height position of the car, during normal driving this is the optimal position for throwing the light ahead and still illuminating the road. When there is fog, mist or smoke present in the air the headlights hit the fog and back into your face drastically reducing visual range. Many cars, certainly all modern cars are now fitted with front facing fog lights to combat this problem.

Front fog lights are normally positioned in the lower part of the car, are angled down and have a different light pattern. This is designed to shine the light under the fog and directly onto the road surface. By taking this approach the light can travel under the fog and illuminate the road without bouncing off the fog and dazzling the driver. Some cars will also turn off the headlights when the front fogs are enabled to further reduce glare and improve visibility for the driver in fog conditions.

All cars will also have a rear fog light. Whilst the rear fog light doesn't help with seeing ahead, it does provide a much needed boost in making you visible to other road users. By having a single, or double rear fog light turned on during foggy conditions it means you are visible to approaching cars from a much greater distance.

Front Fog Lights
Front fog lights on a Citroen

What is a tell-tale or fog light symbol?

Your car will be fitted with a symbol known as a 'tell tale' which illuminates when that fog light is being used. These symbols are designed to illuminate for front and rear fog lights independently. Their sole purpose is to inform the driver when their fog lights are on and off.

On some vehicles, the fog light tell-tale can be a single symbol that changes colour depending on whether the front and rear fogs are on. On other vehicles you may have a separate tell tale symbol for the front and the rear.

It is important to understand these symbols and know what they mean. Driving your vehicle with fog lights on when they aren't required can have major consequences for other road users.

There are many symbols which can appear on your dash, we've covered some of them before, click here to read more.

Dash Fog Lights
Fog lights symbol on dash cluster, both the green and orange on the left hand side.

How do I turn on my fog lights?

This can vary dramatically on each car and you should refer to your owners manual. Whilst there is no standard method for turning on the fog lights, you will find they are virtually always attached to the stalk or lighting dial for your normal headlights. The fog light symbol should be clearly marked on the controls and be easy to find, alternatively it will be displayed within your owners manual.

It is essential that you know and understand the operation of your lights and what each symbol involves before setting out on a journey.

When should I use my fog lights?

Fog lights should only be used when your vision has been considerably reduced due to the presence of fog or mist. It is important that as soon as conditions improve that the fog lights are turned off to avoid dazzling other road users and potentially causing a crash,

Your rear fog light is used to alert other road users to your presence, by turning on your rear fog you car will be visible from a further distance to any approaching cars. It is important to remember to turn off your rear fog light as soon as conditions approve as this will dazzle other drivers and can be seen as brake lights.

One of the biggest mistakes drivers make is not turning off the rear fog once a car is behind them. As soon as a vehicle is behind you then turn off your rear fog as it will glare through the fog and seriously obscure their vision.

Fog light colours, yellow or white?

This is an age old debate with pros and cons for either colour. Virtually all cars with front fitted fogs will have a white bulb fitted as this fits with the aesthetics of matching the other lights on the front of the car.

There is a large group of people who believe yellow lenses or bulbs are the way forward for front fog lights. Yellow light supposedly is less likely to reflect off the fog and more likely to cut through and illuminate the road ahead. When driving in snow and ice, yellow light doesn't glare as much off the snow/ice and thus stops your eyes getting as tired on long journeys.

For most, sticking to the normal warm or ice white (led/hid) as per the factory fitment is the best solution. It is normally only the extremes where a yellow light is considered beneficial.

The law on using fog lights

If you read the 'Road Vehicles Lighting Regulations 1989' you will find that it specifically states using lights that dazzle other road users is considered unlawful. Therefor using your fog lights in conditions where fog lights are not required would leave you open for prosecution. Generally speaking the incorrect use of lights is often dealt with by a stern word from the police and/or a fine.

There is also a lot of guidance in the highway code for using fog lights, specifically rules 234 to 236. According to the highway code, You MUST NOT use front or rear fog lights unless visibility is seriously reduced as they dazzle other road users and can obscure your brake lights. You MUST switch them off when visibility improves.

My fog lights aren't working!

If your fog lights are not working, either rear or front then you need to get them looked at as soon as possible. The most common cause is the bulb being blown and can quite often be a quick home fix. If this isn't the case then there are a number of other possible solutions including fuses, wiring and the switch.

If your rear fog light isn't working or your tell tale symbol isn't working then not only does this become dangerous in case you are caught in the fog but it will also be classed as an MOT fail.

As a driver it is your responsibility to ensure all your lights are working and operational before setting out in your vehicle on each journey. If for any reason you are unsure or unable to fix a problem please pop by our garage or contact us to get your car booked in.

How do I drive safely in the fog?

There is some good guidance in the highway code on how to use your lights and drive correctly in fog, the general consensus is to practise the following during foggy conditions.

Fog lights summary

Being safe on the road is your number 1 priority as a driver. As part of this comes the need to know how to correctly use your fog lights during adverse driving conditions. Leaving your fog lights on when the weather conditions are normal can have a considerable impact on other drivers, and in the worst cases cause injury or even death due to road traffic accidents.

All cars are fitted with rear fog lights and the majority will also have front fog lights. These can be used to help with both your visibility and being seen by other drivers. As a driver we need to remember to be vigilant to what lights we have on and use the tell tale symbols to do so.

As a driver, it is your responsibility to ensure your lights and your vehicle is operating correctly and remains road safe. If at any point you would like this checked or have any concerns please contact the garage or pop in for a chat as we are always happy to help.

Unleaded petrol is changing to E10, all you need to know

Unleaded petrol changing from E5 to E10

As of 1st September 2021, forecourts across the UK will be required by law to sell E10 unleaded petrol as their standard fuel. The E10 fuel uses 10% of bioethanol in the fuel mixture delivered out of the pumps, compared to the current grading of E10 which uses just 5% bioethanol in the fuel mix. The new law/changes have no effect and make no changes on diesel fuels in the UK.

What is Bioethanol?

Bioethanol is a renewable fuel that is man made. Bioethanol is created by a fermentation process of a wide range of crops including sugar beet, wheat, corn and even some food waste!

Why the change from E5 to E10?

By increasing the % of Bioethanol in the fuel mixture from the current 5% up to the new mixture of 10% it will decrease the amount of fossil fuel burnt by motor vehicles. Just this simple change of 5% is expected to bring annual savings of up to 750,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions from vehicles, this would be the same as taking a staggering 350,000 vehicles off the road each year.

Sounds too good to be true? right?

Some may say there must be a catch or a downside to such a change. In real terms, the vast vast majority of drivers will not notice any difference other than the E10 badge on the pump. There is likely to be an incredibly small drop in MPG fuel economy values on most cars as Bioethanol is less energy dense than standard petrol but the latest DFT predictions are showing just a 1% drop in economy. Given that other factors such as driving styles, incorrectly inflated tyres, air conditioning and poorly maintained cars have far greater effect on fuel economy, for many the 1% difference is probably unnoticeable.

Are all cars compatible with E10?

Since 2011, all cars sold within the UK are compatible with the E10 fuel, it is worth noting that manufactures have been adhering to the E10 compatibility long before the 2011 limit came into effect. Over 95% of cars built since 1990 will work just fine with the E10 fuel.

There are some significant/popular exemptions that cannot use the E10 fuel, namely the early VW models with FSI engines. Some of these models include MK4 and MK5 VW Golfs, some VW Polos and VW Touran people carriers.

If your car was built before 2011, chances are you will be fine with E10 but the government has a handy E10 fuel checker which can be found by clicking the link below.

Check if your vehicle can run on E10 petrol - GOV.UK (www.gov.uk)

Can I still buy E5 fuel?

In short, yes! E5 will still be sold in many, if not all forecourts in the form of 'premium' fuels. These premium fuels are often sold as 'Supreme', 'High Grade' or 'High Octane' mixes and generally contain a greater Octane rating as well as the 5% Bioethanol mixture. They do however attract a much higher price premium over the standard E10 petrol being sold. These premium fuels are largely aimed at high performance or specialist cars but are also the alternative to any vehicle not compatible with E10.

Does this effect emissions?

In short, E10 is designed to reduced CO2 emissions only and will have very little, or no effect on emissions that effect air quality & pollution, or public health.

Whilst we know that this will save a lot of CO2 each year, which is fantastic, the effect it will have on other areas is likely to be very little. With the higher percentage of ethanol in the system it is unlikely to have any effect on air pollution with NOx and particulate matter being main contributors, that remain uneffected.

It's also worth noting that the E10 fuel won't have any impact on emissions and congestion charges such as the LEZ, ULEZ or Birmingham CAZ.

Classic cars and the use of E10 fuel

Many classic vehicles won't be listed in the online E10 checking tools and limited data or knowledge will be available for them. Many of the classic vehicle manufactures aren't even trading and thus getting reliable data is going to be difficult.

In these instances, the recommendation is to use E5 premium fuels to avoid the possibility of any damage or issues down the line. Local clubs, enthusiast groups and specialists are the best sources for information on whether classic vehicles are compatible with the E10 fuel.

I've put E10 into a car that's not compatible, what next?

When this scenario happens then don't panic! Unlike putting in the wrong fuel which can have catastrophic effects, putting E10 into a vehicle that's not compatible isn't a real issue. Simply top up the tank with E5 at your next petrol top up. Short term use of E10 is unlikely to have any effect, the real issues and problems occur with long term use of E10 in a vehicle not compatible.

Can I mix E5 and E10 petrol?

Yes, there is no reason why you can't mix the two fuels together if your vehicle can run on E10. If for any reason E5 is the only option, or you wish to run every other fill with E5 as a 'boost' then this won't cause any issues. If your vehicle isn't compatible with E10 then you shouldn't use E10, although an accident fill can be topped up with E5 without any long term effects.

Other Engines

Please keep other mechanic engines in mind when sourcing E10 and E5 fuel. Areas to consider include petrol powered machinery (lawnmowers, chainsaws, strimmers etc), ride on machine such as Lawnmowers, Gators etc, petrol generators, petrol pumps, boat outboard motors etc. If in any doubt please always use E5 until specific data is available to say they are compatible with E10 fuel.

How will I know E5 from E10 petrol?

The fuel stations in the UK should label the fuels correctly and clearly. The standard label is the petrol name in a black circle and will look like the image below. This should be clearly marked on the pumps. You will likely find that E10 will be sold as 'Unleaded Petrol' and the E5 will be sold as a premium fuel such as 'Supreme' or 'High Octane'. Newer vehicles, namely those from 2019 onwards are likely to have these labels on the fuel cap or near the fuel filler area to show which fuel they are compatible with.

E10 and E5 Petrol Labels

Top 10 reasons why your car is stalling

Why does my car keep on stalling or cutting out?

Have you ever been driving along to find your engine simply judders to a stop? or pull up at a junction/traffic lights to find your engine simply cuts out rather than idles as expected? It's one of the top fears for any driver to find an engine simply stop running! In this article we take a look at the most common causes of stalling.

What happens when your car stalls or cuts out?

Stalling is the terminology given when a running engine comes to a stop by itself. This can be a gradual stall which is similar to an engine being switched off or it can be a sudden jolt with the engine stalling. This is quite often accompanied by an array of warning lights on your dash.

An engine stall can happen at any time when driving or idling the engine. It is important to remember that when driving an engine stall will also cause limited brakes, loss of power steering and complete loss of engine power. If the engine doesn't restart you will also find it difficult to move the car on your own without power steering or engine power.

It is also possible to stall the car by not engaging neutral gear when stopping, selecting the wrong gear (e.g. pulling away in 3rd) or even braking whilst still in gear. This is known as a sudden or jolt stall and will instantly cut the engine, often in a loud dramatic way.

So may car has stalled, what should I do now?

The immediate reaction to a stall should be your safety. Put your hazard lights on to alert other road users, if you are still moving then attempt to get the vehicle into a safe space away from other traffic such as the side of the road.

Once you are stationary, ensure the car is in neutral and attempt to restart the car. Most of the time the car will restart and you can then carry on your journey and seek mechanical help as soon as practically possible. If the car doesn't start it is worth waiting for 30 seconds or so and attempting a restart.

If the car is still not starting then you need to exit the vehicle away from traffic (e.g. passenger door if parked on side of the road) and move away from the live traffic lanes (going over any barriers). Once in a safe location you can call for assistance from your breakdown company or a local garage (such as Whatlington Garage) who can advise & recover.

Can an Automatic car stall as well?

Simple answer, Yes! A stalling engine can be for many reasons, the transmission is only one of those. Even then, an automatic car uses a torque converter which can cause an engine stall on idle when it fails.

The common reasons for a stalling car

There are numerous reasons a car can stall whilst moving or attempting to idle. We have compiled the following list which covers the most common reasons (but obviously not all reasons!) which can cause a stall to occur. It is always strongly advised to get your car checked as quickly as possible after a stall to ensure that any problems are swiftly dealt with

1. Faulty Alternator / Battery

In order for your vehicle to carry on running it requires a consistent voltage to keep the electrical systems alive and active. This is managed by a device known as the alternator that converts spinning motion to electrical energy which keeps your battery topped up and charged whilst providing enough voltage for the electrics in your car to operate.

When the alternator becomes faulty, or if your battery is faulty and drops below voltage then you run the risk of any of the electrical systems in the car stopping. When the electrical system is unable to function you will find the car is unable to keep it's engine running and will promptly stall and bring itself to a halt.

The common issues we see with alternators are snapped or broken belts that spin the alternator, poorly tensioned belts, a failed alternator unit or a dead battery.

We supply and fit a range of Bosch batteries and can get your battery test for you too, just contact us.

2. Faulty Fuel System

The fuel system is fundamental to the engine running correctly, smoothly and efficiently. There can be numerous faults in the fuel system that can cause symptoms such as the car not starting, running lumpy or stalling whilst running. When part of the fuel system fails, or is beginning to fail, the mixture of air & fuel delivered to the engine becomes a different ratio to what the engine is expecting to receive and thus can cause a stall.

Common reasons for the fuel system to fail can be a number of issues including faulty/failing fuel pumps, blocked fuel filters, poor/blocked injectors, low fuel pressure, failed pressure regulators and even fuel leaks. You can also find poor fuel will also cause stalling from dirt/silt in the tank, ingress of water into the fuel, mixed fuel (e.g. diesel in a petrol or vice versa) and even poor quality or contaminated fuel from the station.

Modern engines are a complex engineering feat that require a precise mixture of air and fuel in order to run smoothly. When the system fails and this mixture is thrown out of balance a whole world of issues can occur which often result in poor running or even stalling of the engine.

3. Faulty EGR Valve

The Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve, also known as the EGR valve is an important part of the emissions control system on many modern cars. This special valve allows exhaust gasses to recirculate back through the engine at higher temperatures by the way of a simple valve.

There are many reasons why an EGR valve may fail but by the nature of it being a mechanical valve controlled by an electronic motor they are prone to electrical faults or carbon build up causing the valve to stick open or shut.

Common systems on a failed valve will include poor performance, poor running, excess smoke or stalling engines. In regards to this blog post, an EGR valve stuck open will constantly allow exhaust gasses back into the engine when cold or idling and this can cause the car to run very roughly and thus result in stalling or even stopping the car from starting.

4. Faulty DPF Filter

DPF filters are a recent addition to help combat the emissions from a diesel vehicle. Known as a Diesel Particulate Filter, they are designed to catch and burn off the exhaust emission particles reducing the levels that leave the exhaust. The DPF is a common fail point for many motorists and can become bad either from a blocked filter or the electronics that manage the load and regeneration of the filter itself.

The most common issue is a DPF filter blocking up, normally caused by many short journeys which stop the filter getting hot enough to carry out what's known as a regeneration. When this happens the filter blocks causing back pressure and ultimately causing the vehicle to dramatically loose power (limp mode) and even stall or refuse to start. There are 3 options open to us for when this happens including forcing a regeneration, removing the DPF to clean it manually or replacing the filter. The DPF's are not designed to last the life time of the car and often have an age limit (like a clutch).

There are other reasons for a DPF fail. The system uses a setup of temperature sensors and pressure sensors combined with other specifics in order to monitor the soot/ash levels and control the DPF. If any of these sensors has a fault it can stop the DPF regenerating and cause it to block. Most car manufactures will also stop a DPF from regenerating if there are other electrical faults present on the vehicle so we always carry out a full diagnostic for any DPF issue.

Aside from the common symptoms of loss of power, stalling, smoke and limp mode you will also normally see other signs. You should also get a combination of lights on your dash too. Initially this is normally the DPF symbol and eventually will turn into the Engine Management Light (EML or MIL, often called the Emissions control light in user manuals) and lastly you may also see a flashing orange coil light too.

It is imperative to get a DPF issue look at as quickly as possibly, the longer you leave a DPF issue the more likely it is to be an expensive repair. Catching and cleaning or sorting an issue early can save time, money and breakdowns.

We can regenerate, clean and renew DPF filters, if you want to book or have some questions please contact us.

5. Clutch, Torque Converters & Gearbox Problems

The clutch controls the movement of power from your engine through to your gearbox via the means of a clutch plate. This is different to an automatic which generally uses a torque converter to put power through. In all instances a fault within these parts can cause either slipping or drag/seizing of components.

When a clutch slips, it means the friction material isn't gripping and the power isn't being transferred to the wheels. The more you accelerate or try to move the less progress you will make. Normally this is displayed as a revving engine with no vehicle movement and normally accompanied by a strong burning smell.

A clutch can also drag, stick on or seize and this often results in a vehicle stalling or the vehicle still moving despite the clutch pedal being all the way down. Lastly the gearbox can be prone to wear, tear and internal damage that ultimately can seize up and cause the engine to stall.

The majority of clutch problems will stop the car from driving and end up requiring recovery, however if you get the car checked on the first signs of clutch symptoms they can often be caught before it causes a stall or recovery situation.

We carry out many clutch replacements and help with gearbox rebuilds. Contact us for more information.

6. Coolant / Overheating

Most cars have a fairly simple cooling system but when this fails it can cause temperatures to climb sky high. With a rising temperature that is being monitored by the ECU a car will eventually stall and possibly even refuse to restart again.

There are many reasons for an overheating car, from a coolant leak meaning the engine is running without coolant to a broken water pump, blocked radiator or a stuck thermostat. We also see more severe problems such as blown head gaskets, damaged EGR coolers and damaged oil coolers. We always advise to get the water pump replaced at the same time as the timing belt to help prevent issues with broken or leaking pumps.

7. Alarm & Immobiliser

Virtually all modern vehicles are fitted with an alarm system and immobiliser as standard. Whilst these systems do a great job at reducing theft of vehicles, they also pose problems when they go wrong. When you first start your vehicle the car is looking for a recognised key which is then uses to turn off the alarm. If for any reason the car loses communication with the key, especially on contactless vehicles then the car will turn off. Quite often in this scenario the car will also refuse to restart unless it can redetect the key.

Common causes of this can be as simple as the battery in the key going low, or even forgetting to put the key inside the car! There are more serious issues which can occur such as the transponder chips, pickup rings, alarm ECU's, wiring etc all playing vital roles that are prone to failure.

8. Engine Timing

Probably the most important aspect of the engine is the timing between the bottom block and the cylinder head on the top. This is normally achieved by a Timing Belt that connects the two but can also be a timing chain. Various issues can occur which cause the two sections to come out of time and thus causing the engine to come to a (normally, catastrophic) stop!.

Whether the timing device (belt or chain) has snapped, or simply slipped, when the timing is incorrectly or completely missing the engine cannot run. Most engines are known as 'interference type' engines meaning when the timing fails it causes serious damage to the engine internals that often requires a full engine rebuild.

If you have a timing belt it is essential that the belt and tensioner/pulleys are changed on a regular basis according to the manufactures guidelines. If your engine has a chain then regular, strict oil changes and immediate investigation on any chain noise is essential. By keeping up with preventative maintenance you can avoid this costly 'engine stalling' scenario.

9. Electrical

All the time your engine is on and running the engine is constantly monitored by a range of sensors. The cars ECU will monitor all the sensors in real time and use the data provided to adjust air & fuel ratios. If for any reason there is a failure in this electrical network of sensors then the ECU get's or gives incorrect information that ultimately can lead to the engine stalling and not running.

It is common for many sensors to get 'lazy' with age or to have a working life which causes them to either stop working or read outside of their calibrated or known ranges. As well as this, we also see broken wires, broken connectors, water ingress and internal ECU faults.

There are of course other electrical issues which can cause issues too, such as the alternator not supplying power to keep the electrical system running, a poor/dead battery or even a failed earth connection. Lastly there are also fuses, relays and other sensitive circuits the car depends upon to start and run which can all fail for various reasons.

10. User Error

A car can stall simply by user error, it's nothing to be embarrassed about and happens from time to time with even the most advanced drivers, especially when driving a new or unfamiliar vehicle. Simply selecting the wrong gear, not giving enough acceleration when pulling away, applying the brakes without dipping the clutch etc can all cause your car to judder to a stop. The great news with this is there's nothing wrong with the car, so just restart and off you go.

Stay safe! Don't delay if you think your car has issues.

If your car has symptoms get it checked, serviced or MOT'd

Given the current Covid-19 pandemic, the Government issued a 6-month MOT extension for vehicles with an expiry date after 30th March. This was a measure introduced to allow car owners breathing room whilst in a lockdown period making it easier to stay isolated and shield. As of 1st August this scheme has come to an end, any vehicle with an expiry date on or after the 1st August will need their MOT as normal.

If your vehicle was included in the extension period you will find that your expiry date has automatically been extended by 6 months however it is important that if you are using the vehicle it is kept in a road worthy condition. If there is any indication that there may be an issue with your vehicle then it needs to be checked out.

As an approved MOT test centre we regularly see vehicles through the MOT that fail on potentially serious defects and given that this year vehicles are seeing an additional 6 months before they are rechecked there is more potential for these to defects to be serious and possibly dangerous/life threatening.

Whether you have had the 6 month extension or not, if you experience anything different in your car such as different noises, handling, dash lights or behaviours then get it checked as soon as possible. Ignoring, or hoping these issues will go away can potentially lead to defects which can be a danger to life and should always be checked. We also find that most issues when caught early are often easier to repair and at a cheaper cost than when left untouched.

Below are some common areas which we often see overlooked or neglected on vehicles that only see a garage for the MOT

  1. Tyres - Bald, perishing, cords showing, wear on the edges, bulges, lumps, feathering.
  2. Lights - Check all lights are working (sidelights, headlights, brakes, rear taillights, indicators etc)
  3. Suspension - Knocks, bouncing, creaking noises.
  4. Brakes - Squealing, grinding noises, soft pedal.
  5. Smoke & Smells - Excessive smoking (black, white and/or blue) is a sign of a poor running engine.
  6. Vibrations - Poor running engine or faulty components cause vibrations.
  7. Noises - Knocks, bangs, squealing or grinding noises are signs of worn components.
  8. Warning Lights - Any warning light on the dash should be checked out.

If you have any doubts or questions you are welcome to pop in and have a chat, drop us a message or give us a call.

Examples of un-roadworthy cars

Firstly we have a Toyota Landcruiser, a prime example of what would of started as a knocking or noise from the rear but left unchecked has resulted in the rear trailing arm coming detached. This defect is dangerous and would cause the vehicle to handle poorly and most definitely would result in the vehicle losing control and crashing.

LandCruiser

Secondly we have an Audi where the rear coil spring tip has snapped causing the spring to come unseated from the support cup. This would make the vehicle dangerous to drive with one corner of the vehicle sitting lower than the rest. Ultimately this is a dangerous fault and would of resulted in noise, uncharacteristic behaviour and poor handling.

AudiSpring

These just go to show how important it is to get your car checked on the first sign of any pending problems and carrying out regular maintenance. By catching these problems early you remain safe on the road and potentially save yourself some money as most problems are cheaper to repair when caught early.

We carry out up to 11 MOT's a day and can normally book inspections and checks in within a few days notice. If you wish to book an MOT or a check please use the contact us page to get in touch or our online booking facility to secure your MOT slot.

Timing belt and timing chain replacements

What are they and why are they replaced?

Generally speaking the engine is split into 2 parts and these sections (camshaft & crankshaft) need to be kept perfectly timed together. This is achieved by having a timing belt (also known as a cambelt) or a timing chain connecting them together. It's a vital part of the engine and if the belt or chain was to malfunction or the timing was to come out of sync it can cause catastrophic damage to the engine.

Essentially, the timing belt and chain are considered one of the most vital components within the engine. Quite simply your engine will not run if any of the timing components break or move out of timing.

Timing Belts

It is recommended that timing belts are changed as part of the vehicles servicing routine. Each manufacture will have their own guideline of how often to renew the belt, normally in years and miles. For example some may say every 4 years or 50,000 miles (whichever comes first), others can be as high as every 10 years or 140,000 miles.

When we renew a timing belt we always use a full timing belt kit, this ensures that all aspects of the timing system are replaced including the tensioners and idler pulleys. Some garages will offer a cheaper rate but will only renew the belt, rather than the whole kit.

On some vehicles the water pump is also powered by the timing belt and we will always change the water pump at the same time. The last thing you want is to commit to a scheduled timing belt change to then find in 4 months time the water pump starts to leak, or even worse it fails and takes out the timing belt too.

If a timing belt is to fail it will generally cause major damage to the engine often running into £1500+ bills for engine rebuilds, it is also possible for the engine to be beyond repair resulting in an engine swap. Therefor regular changes of the timing belt will not only save you money but also the stress of your vehicle being off the road.

Timing Chains

Some cars are fitted with a chain instead of a belt and these are considered maintenance free e.g. they won't have a replacement schedule like a belt does. This makes it incredibly important to act upon any engine symptoms or sounds as soon as they appear as it could be a sign the chain or part of the timing chain setup is failing. The chain consists of many components including tensioners, chain and guide tubes.

As a timing chain isn't part of a service routine it is essential to act upon any issues, symptoms or sounds that may occur during engine start up or normal running. Some symptoms to look out for are

  1. A metallic rattle upon starting the engine (especially when cold).
  2. Heavy vibrations or shaking (timing issues).
  3. Metallic clinking noises from the engine whilst driving/idling.
  4. Lack of power from the engine
  5. Engine management lights on

If you experience any of these symptoms then we strongly advise for the vehicle to be checked immediately as a failure of the timing chain can potentially leave you needing a new engine.

Is it the end of the hand brake?

The traditional handbrake as we know it appears to be coming to an end and is slowly being pushed to the motor museum along with cassette tapes, carburettors and chokes! Several of the big players in the car world have already declared themselves hand brake lever free with many others showing signs of following suit.

In 2019, fewer than 1/3 of cars on sale have a manual handbrake with most now sporting the new electronic counterparts. Manufactures such as Jaguar, Land Rover, Mercedes, Porsche and Lexus have no models with a manual hand brake in their 2019 stock portfolio. Other manufactures such as Audi, VW, Seat and Skoda have favoured the new electronic systems with the majority of their vehicles now fitted with buttons or automatic handbrakes.

The new form of handbrake (or holding/parking brake) come in 3 core types, the basic push button replaces the conventional hand brake. There is also the push button with automatic release and then more advance systems which also include fully automatic operation as well as hill start assistance.

Recent studies have shown that only 30% of cars on the market currently have a traditional hand lever operated brake. The studies also show that out of the mainstream manufactures only Suzuki and Dacia have traditional handbrakes on all their models. This just further re-enforces the current trend of moving towards electric braking systems.

The jury is out as to whether this is a sensible move, or a worrying mistake and arguments can be made either way.

On one hand the new systems save space, reduce user error (e.g. the brake not being fully released) and offer some safety benefits such as hill assist. On the other hand though the systems remove the element of the handbrake being used in emergencies, some systems lack the finer control that was once had with a traditional handbrake and some even believe it will mean drivers concentrate even less as more and more controls are automated.

Of course, by far the biggest negative is the costs involved in working with electronic rear brakes. Not only are the components expensive, for example a £20 hand brake cable is replaced with a £400 motor but simple tasks such as replacing the rear brake pads now require a diagnostic machine to carry out settings and adjustments on the motors.

Some may believe this paves way for a new class of vehicle whereby many of the controls are removed and automated. Some manufactures and technology giants such as Uber and Google have been pushing for a new classification of vehicle where a steering wheel, mirrors and pedals aren't required... The future is likely to be a very different place for the vehicle market.

Fortunately we are equipped to handle virtually all electronic braking systems from simple pad replacements through to advance diagnostics of electric calipers, basic settings and calibrations. If you have any fault or maintenance for your braking system please get in touch.